My First Review of The Kitchen Restaurant in Sacramento

Many food enthusiasts review The Kitchen in Sacramento.

Below is my first review of The Kitchen, originally published on August 30, 2008. We have since been back to The Kitchen many times, and each has been a complete delight. This is not only a “special occasion” type of restaurant, it’s a farm-to-fork marvel and continues to be fresh, relevant to the food movement today, well, it’s perfect for anytime the feeling hits that you’d like to enjoy a remarkable meal.

Note: Any references to Noah Zonca are now obsolete as Noah no longer works at The Kitchen.

If you’re feeling in an extravagant mood and find yourself watching too many episodes of Iron Chef — perhaps daydreaming of becoming a panelist at Kitchen Stadium (not gonna happen, the show is over) — then I’ve got just the place for you: The Kitchen in Sacramento, located in the Arden Park neighborhood near Arden Fair. Chef Noah Zonca and Executive Chef Randall Selland have hit on a winning concept. Like Selland’s restaurants in downtown Sacramento, Ella, and Selland’s Market Cafe in East Sacramento, the focus is on fresh ingredients.

Only One Seating Per Evening at The Kitchen

Although I hear there is often last-minute seating, my husband made our reservation for August last May. It’s not your average run-of-the-mill restaurant. They call it a demonstration, because the guests are front and center. The doors open at 6:30 PM, and there is only one seating per evening for about 50 people. Guests are encouraged to wander the kitchen, talk to the chefs, explore the wine cellar and mingle with each other. Most of the seating is around the presentation area, bordered on three sides by marble counters. A few tables line the windows and wrap around the counter area.

Does Eating Furry or Feathered Animals Annoy You?

Chef Noah is flamboyant and starts the show. He’s a comedian, too, engaging the diners as he cracks jokes and talks about the history and origin of each ingredient. Although he touches on some sensitive concerns such as if you don’t know where foie gras comes from, he’s not going to tell you, he makes it clear that the restaurant will accommodate vegetarian requests.

If You Dislike Goat Cheese, Try This

The first course was The Kitchen BLT without the bread. Well, bread was served on the side. Chef Noah promised that people who don’t like goat cheese will love it. I happen to adore goat cheese, but this cheese was extraordinary — fresh, creamy, no bite and a bit of sweetness, accompanied by house-cured bacon, heirloom tomatoes, baby lettuce with a sliver of arugula and a balsamico that costs $145 for a small bottle. It was so delicious that when our server, Eric, overheard me threatening to pick up my bowl and drink from it, he brought me two glasses of a yellow and a red tomato juice. My husband asked for a side dish of balsamico to soak up bread, and Eric was at his side in a flash with a generous serving of this aged vinegar.

The Wine Flight is a Must and Lobster Mushrooms To-Die-For

The wine flight was exquisite. No review of The Kitchen is complete without the wine. For the first course, The Kitchen selected a 2007 Leitz Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz, Rheingau. For the second course, a 2006 Melville Pinot Noir, Estate, Santa Rita Hills, accompanied the tarts. One of the tart selections was changed from wild boar to free-range goat, which I suspect is a bit more chewy than the boar would have been, had it been available. Another tart featured lobster mushrooms, which I believe come from Australia and taste just like lobsters. It was incredible. And another was made with chanterelle mushrooms.

The Best Sushi and Sashimi Ever!

At this point, I was satiated, but we were invited to leave our seats and wander out to the patio for an intermission, where we were presented with trays of fresh sushi, the freshest I’ve ever had. Chef Noah promised this sushi would not be Sacramento sushi, and he was right. The wasabi came from Japan and is very expensive. It’s not that powdery green stuff, this wasabi was shaved from the root itself. Ordinarily, I would not eat fresh scallops as I prefer those cooked, but one slithered down my throat anyway, and I loved it. A guest asked another, “Do you know what you are eating?” And the guest responded, “No, and I don’t care; it’s delicious.”

The next course consisted of Maine lobster and wild white prawn open-faced sliders with a tuna salsa. The wine selection was a Russian River chardonnay, which I felt was a bit too light for this dish. In fact, when we were leaving, the manager asked us what we thought. You know me, I always speak my mind. So, I mentioned that the wine selection for the fourth course didn’t match as well as I had expected, and the manager said it was actually a substitute and indicated the staff had expressed a reservation about it as well. But it wasn’t far off.

Tenderloin so Tender You Can Cut it With a Knife (excepting rare)

We finished the fifth course of tenderloin and peaches in foie gras with split bone marrow, paired with a 2001 Seavey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon “Caravina” from Napa Valley. Bone marrow, even in very tiny portions, which I tried to eat, wasn’t something I truly appreciated. I noticed my husband didn’t eat all of his bone marrow, either, so we asked for a “kitty bag” and brought them home for our cats, whom, I may mention, also didn’t eat it. I suspect I would have liked better if I had spread it on a cracker.

After Dessert, I No Longer Remember The Name of the Wine Pairing

The dessert was perfect. Berries with ice cream and a chocolate fudge-like brownie. Our bill? Let’s just say the dinner for two was $300, without tip and without wine. Was it worth it? Every dime. I give this restaurant five stars. Go. You won’t be disappointed, I promise! I hope this review of The Kitchen inspires you.